“We just kind of wanted to lighten up because we found out that everyone thought we were really serious,” Tome designers Ryan Lobo and Ramon Martin laughed at their Spring 2015 runway show.  Their spring/summer 2015 collection’s references were firmly rooted in Indian artists Dayanita Singh and Rukmini Devi Arundale; the latter a classical dancer of Bharatanatyam, and the former what Lobo described as “the Diane Arbus of India.”

The collection—brocades, lace and taffetas, glittering toppers, and any number of flowing, pleated frocks and skirts in black and white, narrow pinstripes, midnight blue, petal pink, and warm ochre—drew its inspiration directly from Singh’s photography. “We always take our inspiration from a female artist,” Lobo noted, and previous muses have included Georgia O’Keeffe, Ana Mendieta, Shirin Neshat, and Jackie Nickerson, but this was the first time they had a geographic backdrop to their designs as well, and one they carefully avoided making into caricature. “We wanted it to feel young and vibrant and fun and to echo old and new India; opulence and decrepitude, all of that in one sentence,” the designers said.

This is how you kick off New York Fashion Week. Midi lengths still rule next spring ladies and kudos to the duo for having so many models of color walk in their show.