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Guest walked into an ancient theater for this year’s Chanel Couture Show, which had the theme “The Old World and The New World” Girls walked the runway with thick brows and hair done for rockabilly height, the better to show off his new two-cornered picture hats. These were worn atop graphic, linear layers. By day, this collection was about two things: suits done in meaty fabrics and the spoils of remarkable couture craftsmanship. Though jackets varied, they were worn almost always over a short skirt, slightly longer suede underskirt and thigh-high legwear — not boots, said Karl Lagerfeld, but “stocking shoes,” held up by garters. The constant accessory: a wide belt that brought attention to the hips.

As for those fabrics: ribbons, wools, silks, sequins and more embroidered in tweeds that flaunted their couture status while looking practical. Lagerfeld worked mostly in grays, whites and blacks, occasionally interrupting the neutrality with shots of pink and green.

See what celebrities attended this seasons show: